Friday, September 25, 2015

Yunnan Province, China: Kunming

China. If I had to choose three words to describe our experience in Yunnan Province, China, they'd be: raw, bustling, and crowded. Though these words give the most general idea of our experience, they remained true throughout our two weeks in the country's most diverse province.

Andrew and I left Gyeseong for Gimhae Airport on Saturday, August 15th. We could hardly contain our excitement for this trip, especially because we'd be meeting the original Rachel Lauber in Kunming. Our flights were uneventful, unlike Rachel's. After many delays, missed connections, unhelpful airline staff members, and sleepless nights, Rach greeted us in Kunming two and a half days after her intended arrival. So, that's where I'll begin this post, because that's truly when the fun began.

Yunnan, which means "the place south of the clouds", is a province located in the far southwest of the country and has a population of over 46 million people. Yunnan is the most diverse province in China, both ethnically and geographically. Yunnan has the most ethnic minorities in China. Of China's 55 recognized ethnic minority groups, Yunnan is home to 51, and 25 of them exceed populations of 5,000. The topography and altitude change rapidly throughout the province. The mountains of the west are distinct with tall, sharp peaks. Thirteen mountain peeks in this area exceed 6,000 meters (19,685 ft). Conversely, near Yunnan's border with Myanmar and Laos lies a tropical rain forest. One reason Yunnan stood out to us was because of the cool climate. We were happy to leave Korea's hot and humid temperatures for a bit of respite from the heat. We began our time in Kunming (1,900m/6,234ft above sea level) and traveled northwest.

Here is a map of the province for future reference:


Finally, two and a half days after Andrew and I arrived, we reunited with Rachel! This picture was taken at 2:30 a.m., and as you can probably tell, things were a little emotional. We even got a slow clap from the taxi vultures hoping to whisk away dreary customers.


We returned to our hotel at the wee hours of the morning to this scene: tables lining the street full of customers eating the local street fare. The literal meaning of the way many Asian languages say "hello" is "Have you eaten today?" Gathering around a table to share a meal is of high importance in many of the cultures we've been fortunate enough to meet.


After many hours of much needed rest, we spent one full day sightseeing and eating in Kunming. We began with spicy noodles at an open-front noodle shop on the street of our hotel. We chose our meals by pointing to bowls that other patrons had, which I'm sure they appreciated. 


Whenever we request something spicy from a menu in Asia, there is a 100% chance that the server will double check with us to make sure our western stomachs and mouths can handle it. Luckily, we haven't met our match yet, but when the menu says spicy, it isn't joking around. 


Beijing Road, Kunming:


Our first stop after lunch was Yuantong Temple. This temple has a history of more than 1,200 years and is known as the grandest and most important Buddhist temple in Kunming. One interesting fact pointed out to us by a fellow traveler is that, unlike most other temples that were built with an ascending entrance, visitors enter the Yuantong Temple from above and descend to the temple's great hall at the lowest point. 


We really didn't want to let Rachel out of our sight for fear that United Airlines might swoop in and put her on a plane to who knows where.


The Grand Hall. We had the pleasure of witnessing the end of a worship service in which hundreds of monks were chanting together. 


In many of our pictures, you'll notice Tibetan Prayer flags, unknown in other branches of Buddhism. They're often found strung along mountain ridges and peaks high in the Himalayas. Traditionally, they are used to promote peace, compassion, strength, and wisdom. A common misconception is that the flags carry prayers to gods; rather, the Tibetans believe the prayers and mantras will be blown by the wind to spread the goodwill and compassion into all pervading space. Therefore, prayer flags are thought to bring benefit to all.



This is Mae, who we met at the temple. Originally from Kunming, Mae was visiting from her current home in Eastern China. She shared her knowledge of the temple and Yunnan province. 


A short walk from the temple stood Cui Hu Park, also known as Green Lake Park. This was a beautiful place to stroll and people watch.


The park was very crowded with Chinese tourists and locals and consists of a group of 4 small sub-lakes linked by traditional style bridges.



We witnessed lots of traditional dancing and singing.



From our very first day in China, we were asked by tourists and locals for our picture with them. This has happened in Korea, too, but not to the extent that it did during our two weeks in Yunnan. I guess when you have three very fair skinned people over 5'8, you stand out among others. We met some very kind people and have a lot of cute pictures with peace signs. 



We took a stroll through the Yunnan University Campus. YU was founded in 1922, and is one of the largest and most prestigious universities in Yunnan province.


Basketball is very popular in China, and these students were enjoying a friendly pick-up game. 


This volleyball game was pretty intense.


The women's basketball team posing for a team photo. One of my favorites.




"Bell tower Basking in sunshine" is an emblematic sight of Yunnan University. It was built in 1955 as a tower supplying water for the Science Laboratory Building as well as bell tower.


None of our universities had a gate like this. 


Kunming is known as the "city of eternal spring" which is evident by the abundance of flowers and fresh fruits and vegetables year round. During our time in Kunming, we enjoyed temperatures of about 65-70 degrees Fahrenheit. 




After a couple of happy hour cocktails, we found Heavenly Manna. As the name suggests, it was a meal that we wouldn't forget. The restaurant serves home-style Yunnan cuisine in a cozy environment. 

Spicy beef over fried spinach:


From left to right, top to bottom: mixed vegetables, fried goat's cheese with broccoli and tomato, Kung Pao Chicken, and rice. General Tso's Chicken was not an option, and we didn't leave with fortune cookies.


The next day, we began our day with noodles and took a 30 RMB ($5.00) taxi ride across town to the bus station, where we'd catch a ride to Dali. The photo below shows the crowded station on a Wednesday afternoon. 


One thing that we were immediately surprised by was how little English was spoken in Yunnan. We'd heard that tourists flock to Yunnan, but we didn't take into account that they were mostly Chinese tourists. I was (naively) under the impression that our time in China might be like Southeast Asia, in that many businesses would have English speaking employees due to many English speaking tourists. We learned quickly that it would not be so easy, so we relied heavily on our phrasebook and the translation apps that many people have on their phones. Thankfully, all of those that we attempted conversing with were very patient and understanding of our lack of Mandarin. And who doesn't like a game of charades every now and then?

We'll continue our posts on China city by city until we come full circle and meet again in Kunming. As always, we hope you're all well and look forward to seeing you in a couple of months. 

GBO, Rachel


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